Le Relais de la Poste

One of the most exciting culinary adventures of our current stay in France has been at Le Relais de la Poste, in La Wantenzau, just north east of Strasbourg.  La Wantzenau is an old fishing village on the Ill River which curlicues its way through the town, running vaguely parallel to the nearby Rhine.

Carte des Vins

Deb (debsravingrecipes.blogspot.com) had contacted Chef Emile Jung, of Au Crocodile restaurant in Strasbourg, in search of haute cuisine versions of traditional Alsatian Easter fare – in this case a rabbit dish.  M. Jung sent his regrets that he could not assist given that he had retired recently, but recommended Le Relais de la Poste as a culinary experience that might meet our needs, especially as his former head chef, Laurent Huguet had taken over the kitchen there.  Not only did he recommend, but contacted Caroline van Maenen, the owner of Le Relais, who made us most welcome and was willing to give us access to the kitchen and share recipes for Deb’s Canberra Times column.

The building itself was suitably ancient, and picturesque in a quintessentially Alsatian way.  It had been, as its name would indicate, a former staging post for coaches. It started its foodie life as bistro and tabac and developed into a seriously popular local eatery in the 70s. Caroline took over the business in 2009 and it has since been awarded a thoroughly deserved Michelin star.

Our accommodation was a very comfortable contemporary adaptation of old Alsatian style and the restaurant provided with some gastronomic experiences that will stay with us.

As you would expect for this standard of restaurant, quality and smooth professionalism exudes from every pore.  The dining room is cosy and sophisticated in its decor and the wine cellar is extensive and impressive, with brilliant guidance and service provided by young sommelier Hervé Schmitt.

Foie de Canard

I won’t attempt to review the food here, as Deb does that much better than I can in her blog and Canberra Times column (should be published in early May), but I do have to say that the Foie de Canard en croûte de sel, haricot blancs au bouillon, laurier et gras jambon, a dish served for two, is no doubt one of the best things I have ever eaten.  

Les Sommeliers

Essentially it’s a duck liver cooked in a crust of salt and served on a bed of haricot beans cooked in a rich stock. Our waiter wheels a serving trolley up to our table and carefully removes the top half of the salt crust, gently lifts the liver on to a cutting board where it is sliced deftly into 8 or 10 portions, and delicately laid on a bed of beans on our plates.  The beautifully presented whole is then drizzled with a sweet and piquant brown sauce.  The texture is amazing, the taste exquisite and the rich bottom end provided by the haricots in their rich bouillon makes for unforgettable eating. The recipe will be published in the Canberra Times on 4 May and will also be available from debsravingrecipes.blogspot.com from this date.

This experience is one to save up for, as this sort of quality doesn’t come cheaply, but it’s well worth it for those with a culinary bent. Don’t stint yourself and try it next time you find yourself in Alsace.


Lots more photos on the Picasa link to Relais de la Poste at top right of blog sidebar!